Solo Backpacking Europe: Week 1 in Greece

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ON MY WAY

I woke up on October 4 feeling mmm excited? I had stayed up late the night before packing (as per usual). Packing is always my enemy, especially with backpacking. It’s difficult because, if you’re going to be alone, you want to make sure you’ve got anything you could possibly need. But you’ve also got to keep in mind that whatever you bring, you gotta haul around on your back for the next couple of months. At about 2 am I finally tackled that beast and snuggled into my bed for the last good night’s sleep for 2 months.

That drive to the airport was the shortest it’s ever been. The closer we got, the bigger the pit in my stomach grew. After all these months of prepping and this trip being “someday,” it hit me that “someday” had finally come. We rolled up to the curb and my dad hopped out to give me a hug. He wished me luck and watched me walk through the doors before driving away.

Alexa stands in front of the airport entrance with her backpack before leaving on her first solo backpacking trip — Leaving for my first solo trip!

Those few minutes of saying goodbye, and watching him drive away, I thought I would cry. I thought I’d freak out. And for a moment, it felt weird. I was truly, truly on my own now. But as I went through the process of the airport- checking my bag, going through security, finding my gate, etc. I realized I actually know what I’m doing. I’m totally fine on my own.

At my gate, there was a woman who was extremely intoxicated and aggressive toward staff. They told her she couldn’t get on the flight. It’s an unfortunate case but I have to say a lil thank you to that lady for having an extra margarita that day because she was supposed to be sitting next to me. On this very full flight, I got an entire center row to myself. And also thank you to the airport staff for not allowing her on the plane because that would have been a hellish 6 hours.

When I got on the plane, I just felt a wave of calm. I had this knowing that I am exactly where I’m supposed to be, doing exactly what I’m supposed to be doing. I wasn’t worried about not having a plan. I knew where I was going to be for the first few days and that’s all I really needed to know. The adventure had begun.

Stop 1: THESSALONIKI, GREECE

I landed in Thessaloniki with little confidence that my checked bag had landed with me. Due to the delay from drunk lady, my first flight had been delayed which meant my layover had been shrunk down to a mere 40 minutes. By the time I got off the plane, I had 15 minutes to sprint to the other end of the Amsterdam Airport. One of my favorite airports by the way, but definitely a long haul to get across the thing. Sweating and out of breath, I just barely made it on time for my second flight. Given that I had barely made it, I knew there was no shot for my bag.

I kept an optimistic mind. I waited and waited, but my big red backpack never appeared on the carousel. I made my way to the nearest help desk where they confirmed that my bag was still in the Netherlands. They asked for my address for the next week to send it to once it arrived.

First, I thought—A WEEK?! You mean it could be a week before I see that stupid heavy-ass pack that I so desperately need? Oof.

A woman is solo backpacking through Europe and decides to capture a moment by taking a selfie in a bathroom.

I looked down at my airport clothes I had now been wearing for 20 hours, sweat through, then dried, then sweat through and dried again. I looked back up, silently crying, for I knew I had packed my cabin bag with absolutely nothing I’d need. No toothbrush, no underwear, no change of clothes. I had a phone charger but no adapter, so it was virtually useless. No change of socks. I managed to include my plush avocado pal but none of the things that would actually be of use to me. But I had a phone, a passport, cash, and a bed to sleep in that night. It was on my very first day of solo backpacking that I learned: if you’ve got those things, you’re going to be just fine.

I gave her my hotel address for the first three days as that’s all I had booked, but then said I’d be leaving after that. Naturally, she asked where. I said, “I don’t know.” She looked at me with the most sideways, disgusted look. Like, What do you mean you don’t know?

This is when I started to panic. I thought, this is what backpackers do isn’t it?!! They only plan a few days at a time!! This is totally okay! Entirely needing to convince myself more than the lady behind the desk. She absolutely couldn’t fathom that I flew from the US to Greece and had not booked any accommodation beyond 3 days… how weird of her!

I walked out of the airport to find the pickup I had arranged with the hotel. Well, it turns out I hadn’t done something right because there was no one waiting there to take me to my hotel. I grabbed a taxi and thought oh boy, this is exactly what they warn you about. But I had no other option.

The driver had lived in Thessaloniki all his life and told me all the wonderful things he knew about the city. He loved Greece and it showed. He told me about different spots to check out and then stopped the car at a lookout. Alarm bells went off in my head. Oh perfect!! Abducted on the first day! I thought. He got out and told me I had to see this view. I know, I know, you’re probably yelling at me like you would a girl in a horror movie who’s about to die, but truly, all I could do was weigh my options. I took my bag and got out. I made sure to walk behind him and keep my back to a wall. There were people in this very public place, and I figured it was better to be out of the car than in it. I looked out at the view, not really enjoying it because of the whole “high alert I might get abducted” thing, but appreciating being able to look out at this place I was about to explore the next few days from up above. He sensed my unease and made sure to stay a few feet away from me. We got back into the car, and he took me to my hotel.

Then he told me if I ever need anything while I’m there to call him. I absolutely was not going to give him my number, but he wrote his down on a piece of paper and gave it to me, then wished me luck.

I kept that paper. It’s a reminder to me that people can be good. He loves his country so much that he just wanted to share it. He was a kind person looking out for a stranger and though there were many people like this I’d met on my travels, he was the very first.

I got in my room and that’s when the panic set in. It hit me that I was in a foreign country alone. Super alone. Everything that had happened already was…startling? Who do I think I am?? I thought to myself. Why did I think I could do this? What the fuck did I get myself into?

A building in Europe with an arrow pointing to it.

I called my dad and somehow, between sobs, he could decipher what I was saying. He went on google maps street view and said “Hey joj! I’m right outside your window!” Logically, I knew he wasn’t actually there. But I so badly wanted him to be that I went out and looked anyway. I sat out on my balcony and we talked about everything we could see. He stayed on the phone with me until I calmed down.

I splashed some cold water on my face and took a deep breath. Now that the initial freak-out was out of the way, it was time to get down to business. I had stuff to do! I took the pressure off myself to know where I’d be going next or what I was going to do tomorrow and focused on what I needed to do just that night. I needed food, a phone charger, and to get acclimated with the area.

One of the first things I do when I get to a new place is go for a walk. I didn’t put any pressure on myself to have a specific destination, to talk to anyone, or accomplish anything. My only goal was to wander, get a little lost, and think about places in town I may want to check out in days to come. The next day I’d set out to get the necessities like a toothbrush, deodorant, a sweater, and a SIM card.

Thessaloniki 3 — Reunited with my backpack

I spent the next few days exploring Thessaloniki. I finally built up the courage to have my first solo sit-down meal at a restaurant called Mamalouka. The staff was so kind. They kept coming back to talk to me and brought out their favorites on the menu. They even brought me a traditional Greek dessert– on the house! It is here that I met my dear friend Sophia. I went back the next night to have a glass of wine and see my new friends. I ended up staying for hours. If you find yourself in Thessaloniki, go to Mamalouka and tell them I say “γειά σας.”

Thankfully my backpack and I were reunited by the time I needed to check out of my hotel and I could get on to my adventure.

NEXT STOP: ATHENS

A solo traveler's journal documenting backpacking adventures across Europe. — Every step it took to get from Thessaloniki to Santorini

The highest priority place for me to go was Santorini. So, that’s where I headed first. To get there, you need to take a Ferry out of Athens. It took pretty much every mode of transportation to get there. Taxi, walking, bus, train, ferry, plane. I knew I had an exhausting 24 hours ahead of me. I was only in Athens for one day and didn’t see much of it. I thought I’d come back to Athens after the islands if I wanted, but I was eager to get to Santorini. I intended on just sleeping early in Athens and not doing much while I was there for less than 24 hours.

I went down to the community room to read a book and maybe meet some people. I knew having your head in a book doesn’t really make you so approachable, so I used my free drink token I got at check-in to grab a beer… I never read a page of that book that night.

At the bar, I just kept meeting people. As everyone toyed with the idea of heading out to check out the nightlife, I resisted. I needed to rest before my long trek the next day. Well…one thing led to the next and I was out on the town. I’ve got a rubber arm. It’s one of my favorite nights of the whole trip. Shoutout to Justin, Sam, & Dec for telling me I can’t be boring.

If there’s anyone who is not going to let you stay in, it’s an Aussie and a couple of Brits.

A woman wearing a mask looking out of a window during her solo backpacking trip in Europe.

A large cruise ship on a dock at night, providing a breathtaking view for solo backpackers exploring Europe.

I stumbled to the train at 5 am after a 1-hour nap. From there I arrived at the port. The ferry was a bit rough, but I slept most of the time. I couldn’t believe my eyes when I woke up on an island, which is my favorite place to wake up. I stepped off the ferry and onto Santorini. The place that had inspired my entire solo trip! I was finally here! The place I looked at photos of for years.

The best was yet to come.

Read all about Santorini and prepping for your first solo trip.

Check out the scrapbook for pictures from my trip!